This is where I am with the model, I am currently working on the third level and about to enclose the interior with the glass skin for the harvesting level. I have incorporated some trees to test and hopefully the majority of the model will be done tonight. Constructing the Genius bar for this model is going to take some ingenuity. There is also a 3d-model in the pot, but will not be ready until late this week.
Anyone knows if we are sending the models to Ted's attention at the BAC or someone else. Ted, any suggestions.
4 comments:
Eddie,
I think I answered the shipping question. Keep in mind the package can go inside a shipping box.
The trees make me nervous. Once you start here, you have to have the mounds and similar scale / color elements.
We used to use vetrinarian's blades to make models. They are ten times sharper than an xacto. Keep a sharp blade...
Eddie:
Thanks for the model input. Pastic for glazing is definately a bear! This is my first foray into using plastic for glazing but I did find a solution that may be useful for you. For gluing plastic to non-plastic, I had to glue twice. First with Aleene's clear gel tacky glue, and when that had dried (but not adhered to plastic) I pulled it off and reglued it with Pacer Poly Zap. (which is basically a super-glue - cyanoacrylate). Hope this is a help...
It may be too late, but model stores have R/C 56 that works really well for plastic to plastic and plastic to non-plastic. You dont' need very much, but it also takes a little longer to dry than CA (cyanoacrylate). The problem I have always had with CA is it "fogs" the plastic around the area, similar to off gasing from welds on steel.
Good Luck
Great work Eddie. I wish I had checked this prior to using the glue I bought from Asels...ah well all part of the learning experience. And what an experience it has been, with all of you!
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